How to Install a Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water System ?>

How to Install a Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water System

How to Install a Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water System

Now that you have confirmed that you received everything, we can now start the installation. Most reverse osmosis installation must be installed under your sink. Check to make sure you have adequate room. The system can be remotely installed in a basement, we will need to purchase the additional tube to install the system remotely

First, we install the faucet. This installation is for the standard drinking water faucet that will come with the RO system. If you purchased & upgrade air gap faucet, you can find a separate installation video for that on our website.

Note: Drill a 3/8’’ hole into your countertop with the appropriate drill bit.

Put the chrome cushion on your faucet, followed by the black rubber washer. Set the faucet in the hole you drilled in the sink or your countertop reverse osmosis system. You may want to have someone hold in the correct position way secure from the underside in the sink for countertop. On the bottom side of the faucet under the sink, you install this washer first. If your faucet was placed in a larger all, you should install the washer bevel side up to help centre  the faucet  in the hole. But in this case, we drill the Seven sixteenths inch hole, so our washer will be double size down. Next will be the star or lock washer. And lastly, we will install the nut in tightened, when you have the faucet in the desired position. I like this will be the neck and stop them like this, just because it is easier to get to the handle. From the underneath the sink, install your Quick connect fitting. Inside the fitting is the tapered fit that would seal the connection without any of thread tape. Make it hand-tied and then give an additional quarter turn with the Ring. Now we can start our reverse osmosis installation.

First, turn your water off on the cold water side of the existing faucet. Once the  water is off, open up the existing faucet to relieve the pressure. Next, we will remove the cold water line with PPO’s that runs up to the existing sink faucet. Most of the time, you can use your hand and one ring. But in some cases it may take 2 wrenches to hold about while moving the weapons. It is a good idea to have a towel handy for any water drainage. Once the holes loose, we will need to install the angle stop feed valve. For the reverse osmosis feed water connection, this angle stop valve will screw directly into the existing sink faucet. Once you have the angle stop valve tight, you will see it can be spun to any position now attach your faucet holes onto the newly installed angle stop valve. Be careful when tightening, not to damage the threads as the plastic is not as rigid as a metal valve. A valve can be purchased that is much more rigid but it is not included in the standard system. You can find the John Guest now at However, in most cases, the valve included will work perfectly find once it is in place. You can shut off the RO line feed valve by turning the handle, so it bisects the line connection. With the reverse osmosis feed valve, in the off position, you can now turn on the water valve for the existing sink faucet. Check for any leaks. If you have any leaks, repair them now. Next we will install the drain saddle. The saddle can come to different ways. One has  a nut & then there is a quick Connect act. First, we need to drill appropriate hole for the cell connection. If you have an Air Gap Faucet, this will be a 3/8 inch hole.

Note: if you are using the standard faucet, this will be ¼ inch hold.

In this video, we are going to use a quarter inch drill bit to provide a quarter inch hole in the drain line. Next drill the hole in the cross pipe. IF you have 2 sinks, make sure the hole is in the lateral pipe between the two sinks. The size of the hole you make depends on whether you are using a standard faucet or air get faucet, where using a standard faucet so the hole will be a quarter –inch. So now we will put the saddle onto the pipe. Use your drill bit as a reference to make sure the saddle hole is lined up perfectly with the hole that was drilled in the pipe. Connect & tighten saddle, using the included nuts & bolts. Once it’s tightened, you can remove your index tool.

Now we can move on to connecting the reverse osmosis system. The Blue 3/8 inch is your faucet connection. It comes out the post carbon filter seen here with the standard Faucet. Place the hose into the Quick connect until it stacked. Next we attach the tank. The first step is to install the tank valve. If you have the metal tank, Teflon tape needs to be put on threads to seal it. Wrap threads clockwise, you will need 4 or 5 wraps. Smooth the wraps with your fingers and attach the valves until it’s tight. It only needs to be hand –tight. If it doesn’t seem tight enough, remove it and add a few more wraps up the Teflon tape. Note that, for the replacement on the tank, you can either having it sitting upright or will also supply stand if you need to lay on its side for space concerns. Find a position under your sink in place with the tank. The hose that will be fit with the tank will be coming from the inlet side at the post carbon filter seen here. Attach the hose into the tank valve. Make sure, it is pushing all the way.

The next connection will be the supply line. It will be attached to the import on the sediment filter housing as shown here. No the molded text that reads in. Take the red corner in the supply line from the import and push it all the way in the angle stop valve.

Lastly, we attached to drain line. Install the black RO system tray line or Brian outline on a permeate pump system and run it to the saddle we installed earlier. If the saddle is not a quick-connect, push the hose through the cell. Not insert the tube in the saddle & then tighten the hand-tight. It can be tightened an additional half turn if desired using pliers. The system is now hooked up, and to be installed into the cabinet.

Now if you have a best reverse osmosis system with the permeate pump, installation will be slightly different. First, once all the supply line for the faucet. If for some reasons, the hose are ever a different size, you can use the adapter fitting that will come with the faucet. And remember, the faucet line is always going to be connected to the outlet side. If you ever unsure, you can look on the post carbon filter and check to see with the flow arrows pointing. The air will be pointed to the outlet connection on the filter. The next thing will do is to install the drain line. The drain line is usually black but this case, we have a red hose. Don’t let the color confuse you as it is how it’s connected that matters. If you look, you can see its label connected to the drain line to this fitting into the drain saddle. Next take your tank line which is on the T side of the carbon filter before the arrow runs this line over the tank. Lastly, we will install the supply line connection. Take quarter-inch supplied & insert it into your angle stop valve. Once it’s put in the valve & push in all the way, tighten the collar down. On the back of the reverse osmosis system is the inlet seaport. The quarter line will be attached here. Now your systems install, you can file a place when you are sick. You may want to tie up any excess tube to keep the mile away. But it helps to keep the tubes loose so you can easily to take your system out of the cabinet for some work space, we need to change the filters. The only thing to do is get your system online in running.

Advance the next video in this series to feature.

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